Journal

Travel Diaries

Extended accounts of journeys designed and taken. Written to be read slowly.

Bali, Indonesia

Seven days

February 2026

Seven days in Bali: a record of pace

We set out to document a single week designed around doing very little. What we found instead was how much happens when you stop planning for it.

Day one

Arrived in Denpasar at two in the afternoon. Drove to Seminyak through traffic that required no particular hurry. Checked in. Swam. Slept at nine.

Day two

North to Ubud by eight, before the heat. The rice terraces at Tegallalang with one other person present. Coffee at a warung overlooking a valley that has been farmed for seven hundred years.

Day three

The water palace at Tirta Gangga at sunrise. The stone carved hands emerging from the water. A place designed entirely for stillness.

Day four

Nothing scheduled. A walk to the market. A long lunch. A book. The kind of afternoon that does not need documenting.

Day five

Besakih, the mother temple, in the early morning fog. Seven thousand steps. Priests in white. The smell of incense carried sideways in the wind.

Day six

South to Nusa Dua. The water is a different colour here. The light lasts until seven. We eat at a table six feet from the ocean.

Day seven

The last morning in Ubud. A walk through the monkey forest before the tourists arrive. Coffee at the same warung. The flight home at three.

Singapore

A weekend

November 2025

Singapore in a weekend: what is and isn't possible

We do not recommend two nights in Singapore. We go anyway, to see what two nights reveals. The answer is partial and beautiful.

Friday evening

Arrival from Tokyo. The city at night from the cab window — ordered, luminous, a grid of light and glass that suggests everything is under control.

Saturday morning

The Botanic Gardens at seven, before anyone else. Then a long breakfast at a table that deserved more time than we had.

Saturday afternoon

Chinatown. The Sri Mariamman Temple. A noodle shop on Keong Saik Road recommended by the hotel concierge without any prompting.

Saturday evening

Jewel Changi for the rain vortex at dusk. The scale is genuinely surprising, even knowing it is coming. Then dinner at a counter we had been meaning to visit for two years.

Sunday

The gardens by the bay before it opened to the public. The flight home at noon. Singapore had given us a fifth of itself. It was enough to know we needed a week.